My Big Fat Greek Summer Holiday ’18
The start and sadly the end:
It is with a heavy heart that I have to announce my wonderful ‘Big Fat Greek Summer Holiday 18’ is over… well that is until next year!
I live in the Middle East – Doha, Qatar to be precise and one of the most wonderful aspects of living in this amazing country is the ability to travel, as we literally sit in the ‘middle’ of the world, meaning ‘everywhere’ is accessible.
During our summer the heat in Doha can be very intense (has been known hit the scorching 50 degree notch several times) so a break to a cooler climate is definitely recommended. Always remaining a sun worshipper, even though I live in the intense sunshine (by choice I always go for this) I like to disappear to the the summer climate of the Mediterranean, in particular to the shores of welcoming Greece. Why I love this country so much I do not know except when I arrive I feel totally at home with the lifestyle, the weather, the food and the people, let alone the history of this ancient land.
How best to arrive from my part of the world? Naturally by flying with our National carrier Qatar Airways, and after a very easy direct 4 hour flight departing from Qatar’s luxurious Hamad International Airport (HIA), one lands in Athens, the capital and mainland airport. All so easy and even more adaptable is that Greece runs along the same time zone as Qatar, so no body or clock adjustment is required (perfect).
On route from HIA .
Its a well known fact that many ‘tourists’ disappear to the picturesque islands, and yes they are all worth a visit as they are quite unique and visually beautiful, however, for me I like to escape the usual ‘tourist’ path and venture to the unspoilt, native shores of the mainland, in particular to a magical place literally 3-4 hours drive from Athens airport called Pylos. I recommend to hire a car in order to get to this chosen haven, but I guarantee the drive will go quickly due to the recently built, fast moving autobahn now running from Athena (Athens) directly through the mountains, way over to the bay of Messinia, in the southwestern part of the Peloponnese (Peloponnesos) region.
Never in a hurry once my feet touch the ground, I like to break up the 3-4 hour journey ahead with an overnight stay en route in either market towns, villages or historical archeological sites, where it is possible to wander amongst the ancient ruins of a Greek temple, an amphitheatre or fortress.
For this trip its an overnight stop in the university town of Tripolis, a buzzing city full of students, families and of course the essential restaurants and bars. Do not worry if you arrive late afternoon and the place appears fast asleep, this is quite normal in the summer time, as it is only after 7pm at night do you really see activity when the place begins to come awake. This is a natural part of Grecian summer life, quiet and sleepy during the day, however after dusk as the heat of the day dissipates, the shops and tavernas all open up, the locals come out and a wonderful buzz hits the place.
With my spirit recharging with every passing hour, I can be seen wandering the streets for many hours, drinking in the atmosphere and totally absorbing the ‘feel good vibes’ pulsating around me, and of course, as my blog is about food, interspersed between the cafe’s, tavernas, walkways and bars, divine smelling fruit and vegetable shops can be found, displaying their prize wares like elite portrait galleries, impressive and completely bewitching to any passionate foodie like me.
See below your local veggie shop!
Time to move on:
After a great night in Tripolis, sleeping in one of the many hotels offering a very comfortable and affordable ‘bed and breakfast’ its back on the road and off to the final destination.
The drive is so easy, that literally only an hour and half in the car later we arrive – the very unique and beautiful Pylos, Messinia. The holiday now begins….
Pylos
The ancient market town of Pylos is built close to the water, with an historic square positioned in the middle. Naturally in the warm weather (spring through to autumn) this area is the ‘meeting’ place for all ages, a cultural hub for tourists and basically ‘the place to hang out’. Pylos square is always filled with the welcoming noises of laughter, children, tea cups, and mouthwatering food aromas such as freshly baked bread and pastries. Such a beautiful place with a simplicity I believe no-one can ever tire.
I could ramble on about the landscape, the people, the weather etc but FOOD is my blog, so let me entice you with the wonderful array of local foods and dishes I was so lucky to experience, and let the pictures speak directly to your heart without the use of too many words.
Firstly though, it is always important to try a traditional Horiatiki (Greek salad) when in Greece. The ingredients will all be locally grown and of course sun kissed by the empowering mediterranean sunshine; ruby red tomatoes, crisp cooling cucumbers, sweet red onions, crunchy green pepper, a sprinkling of locally dried sage, salty and crumbly feta, local olives and of course oodles of the finest extra virgin olive oil ever. All mopped up by the best sourdough bread I have eaten anywhere! If you order a Greek salad I bet nothing is left other than a feeling of being truly replete.
The FOOD!
Traditional Greek food for a snack or light lunch, is often not over complicated, take the image below. Here Dakos is often served. Just simple doorstep slices of bread, traditionally dried or a day old, topped with finely chopped fresh tomato, crumbly feta, black olives and a heavy flake of dried fresh oregano, naturally soaked in extra virgin olive oil. DIVINE.
The biggest love during my trips to Greece are when I meet the locals, who can really COOK. Let me introduce you to one of my favourite ladies, Shia Athansia (picture below), who with her wonderful family run an amazing supermarket on the outskirts of Gialova, 5 minutes from Pylos. Every time I go to shop I am distracted by the wonderful aromas wafting from her kitchen at the back of the shop, and it is here that she introduces me to local dishes, using aubergines, octopus, or fish and the freshest hand grown fruit and vegetables I have seen for a long time. REALLY LOVE YOU SHIA, and cannot wait to next summer and more ‘lessons’ in your kitchen.
Please check out her Melitzanorizo (stuffed aubergine with rice and vegetables) or my recipe for Paputsakia using minced beef Stuffed Baked Aubergines
The FIGS!
For me though one of the greatest, simplest pleasures is the picking of ripe figs from my wee tree in my garden. It has taken my tree 5 years to offer what I call ‘food of the gods’ and this year they were exquisite. Truly worth the wait.
The tree produced the sweetest, ripest figs I have tasted for years. I certainly congratulated and spoke with my tree every day and you know what, in the morning more arrived. Mad, maybe … but being a true lover of Mother Earth, if talking to my tree and showing love is what it takes, you bet I will happily do it all day long.
Pizza time:
Another great pastime during the summer is to get the pizza oven aflame. If like us you are entertaining volumes of friends or family, the pizza oven is definitely the way to go. The men love to work the pizza oven, and we ladies can sit by and watch.
Oh for the VIEW!
Finally do let me share with you the natural beauty of this special place which captures my heart and I believe all those who visit. Stunning yes?
Farewell to this beautiful place (for now) and definitely I am counting the days until next year ……
